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Early Girl, Amana
Orange, Black Brandywine, and Bulgarian Triumph
are just some of the proud heirloom tomatoes
waiting for their turn in the sun.
And now they have it: varietal ketchup.
In order to produce varietal ketchup, it is
essential to understand the characteristics
different tomatoes offer and how those
characteristics should be expressed in
varietal ketchup. This is the role of the
Varietal Ketchupier: a bold entrepreneur who
combines the esoteric skills of a vintner, the
soul of a gambler and the spicing knack of a
master chef.
You and I will be among the top cats up on the
totem pole of your foodie friends. They will
seethe with jealousy as we retreat to our wine
cellar/ketchup vaults and debate (sotto voce),
"A spunky Petite Sirah, the obvious wine
choice for tonight's meal, but should we go
with the rare "1998 Tiffin Mennonite" or the
reliable, silky "2000 Soldaki" or just go
crazy and break out the "1999 San Marzano"...
decisions... decisions!"
Much as many restaurants have a "spicy dark"
and a "yellow" mustard on every table, soon
they will have standard old ketchup for the
unenlightened and at least one other for us,
the sauce savants. A classy joint will proffer
a ketchup menu without being asked.
Ketchup
World http://www.ketchupworld.com/
The world's largest purveyor of ketchup. [waugsqueke, delete]
[link]
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Summary:
Description:
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You and my grandmother would have
gotten along just fine. She regularly made
catsup, and labeled it according to what was in
it. Different types went with different dishes. |
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I miss her. She made the best shine on
the planet.
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If I had a million dollars,
We wouldn't have to eat Kraft Dinner.
(But we would eat Kraft Dinner. Of course we
would, we'd just eat more.
And buy really expensive ketchup with it.
That's right, all the fanciest Dijon Ketchup.
Mmmmmm.) |
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[some lyrics from the Barenaked Ladies
song "If I had a million dollars"]
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Since your grandmother was clearly
ahead of her time you should start an informal
but vigorous audit of her practices and doings.
Somewhere in her kitchen is yet another "next
big thing." Consider it your birthright. You
just have to figure out what it is (or maybe
this is just the varietal ketchup talking...)
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Let me tell you, most grandmothers who
lived on midwestern farms did that. Various
forms of catsups, pickles, and relishes, each
done as that particular type of tomato or cuke
got ripe, according to recipes that were
jealously guarded and handed down unchanged from
the time when God was just a very small neighbor
boy. Lined up in wide-mouthed pint canning jars
with their little rings of gold like crowns with
dates penned upon them, and placed on dark
pantry shelves like little princely soldiers
ready to be plucked out and dropped onto the
table to attack plain fried potato with a
preserved memory of a bygone summer day's aroma.
Beefsteak tomato, redder than blood, and early
green tomato, sweeter to taste, not as thick.
Some years had more rain, and the reds were
better than the greens. Pickled cukes, okra,
cauliflour boiled with mustard to make
chow-chow, and tomato-corn relish. Red catsup
for burgers, green for fried eggs, and pickle
relish for just about anything.
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And to think I thought sauce came in
only two varieties - "red" or "brown"! I like
the idea of recognising the varieties and having
ketchup tastings and the like, but do I have to
swill it around and spit it out into a pristine
spittoon to seem connoisseurial?
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<aside> In the officers mess in
the British Army, tomato ketchup is referred to
as Sauce Rouge to give it an all-together more
classy image.</aside> |
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'course, in my house, it's called tommy
ketch!
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ketchup is to fish what Posh is to
Becks! Made for each other, you might say. |
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To choose the perfect ketchup, though,
you need to consider not just the fish itself,
but the batter, the chips — and even the
additional flavourings such as salt and vinegar.
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One approach is to choose a fresh,
zingy light red sauce such as a Balham Bloomer
to act like a squeeze of lemon with the food. |
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Or you can go for a soft, round, spicy
type like Battersea Beauty to add a dimension of
its own. |
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Clapham Yellow, a little fuller bodied
than many pale sauces and satisfyingly rounded,
goes beautifully, as does sparkling ketchup, the
most luxurious option. I wouldn’t serve a brown
sauce, though, as first choice; the onion
extract in the sauce can give a hard taste in
the mouth when partnering delicate fish.
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HRuuurrkkkhh ! Fish with tomato sauce?
You are seriously broken, woman !
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Can anyone say, authoritatively, that
ketchup wasn't sold like this at one time; or
did Heinz simply mix 57 varieties together,
called it good and bottled it?
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The word Ketchup likely derives from
the Bahasa (Malay/Indonesian) 'ketjap', which we
now know as fish sauce, 'ketjap manis' (notable
as a Thai ingredient). Taken to Europe by the
British and Portuguese, it was then made with
nuts and mushrooms, though 'ketchup' denoted any
sauce made using vinegar. |
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Worcestershire sauce is probably closer
to the original recipe than the bland tomato
confection of today. There are many similar
recipes, as there are of Italian tomato sauces.
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It is unclear when tomatoes became part
of the sauce. The name Catchup is the first
recorded Anglicisation, followed by Ketchup,
then Catsup. |
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The "57 varieties" relates to an
advertising campaign H.J Heinz ran, pretending
they had 57 different products, I think you'll
find. Heinz started out with one product, grated
horseradish.
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Hey [po] are you cribbing from Ketchup
Spectator? I seem to recognize the style...
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The duration of my living in Australia
in the late 70s was marred only by the native
assumption that any takeaway food that one buys
will automatically have tomato sauce pumped into
it without question or option. It turned my
original disinterest in ketchup on my food into
a rampant almost life-threatened state of
attempted poisoning by the food serving
workforce. It's only about now that I can come
down and give it a go without feeling that
choice and liberty is being denied. |
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btw - the two beers I have on at the
moment are both single-
varietal. The lager is Saaz hops and the new ale
is Northdown. Both jolly good, too.
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Tomato sauce is a creeping, insidious
evil. I have tried to ban it from my home, but
someone has been dealing the shit to my kids, it
seems.
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Problems with the tomato paste
underground, UnaBubba? The ketchup black market
perhaps?
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They are 2 and 3 years old. I'm unsure
of the vector of addiction, but it has happened.
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Aww, I'm sorry to hear that, UnaBubba.
Shirley you've done a rigorous internal
investigation?
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Welcome to the bakery, Dad. (WTAGIPBAN)
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Ahh - sweet, seductive and a smooth
finish too - such a great vintage. Waiter,
another bottle of the '63 and be quick about it
- my chips (fries) are getting cold!
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[jutta] I, too, was surprised, I
googled 'varietal ketchup' 'varietal catsup'
'heirloom ketchup' 'heirloom catsup'. I found
some recipes (the best sounding included
mustard, go figure) but no commercial products.
If you help me score some of the red stuff then
the Barney's Gourmet Burgers and the corkage
fees are on me. |
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But in the big picture I want more than
a single product, I want a shelf or two of the
grocery store dedicated to varieties. We have 6
or so types of maple syrup and dozens of pasta
shapes in even small grocery stores. This is
just the kind of injustice that lead to the
Attack of the Killer Tomatoes.
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Looks like [Jutta] has found some good
leads (and a destination for my next September
culinary expedition to stock the ketchup vault.) |
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Let me know when you want your barney's
'k? piedmont, shattuck, college or solano?
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This seems recipe-ish to me, but
whuddoo I know. |
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// Tomato sauce is a creeping,
insidious evil. // |
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Harsh words from someone so culinarily
open-minded. How odd that such an innocent
foodstuff so vexes thee.
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its the Bubba, ignore him, till he
comes up with a better recipe <drool>
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[waugsqueke] //This seems recipe-ish to
me, but whuddoo I know// |
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arrg. I'm new. This sounds like a
gentle reprimand. But in the food area it seems
like this should be ok (or oker). But I take the
point. I'll watch it. |
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I looked at Ketchup World. Mostly
seemed that the differences were not in the
tomatoes but in the spices and other matter.
Sounded yummy, but not like what I describe.
Must return to shopping cart at Ketchup World...
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Update on baking this one... |
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I have a neighbor who is in the nursery
business. Starts scads of tomatoes and then
carts them off to the retailers as plants. This
year she said she'd planted 90 varieties. Oy! it
is early in the planting season but we are
consulting on which would be most interesting.
Spicing is an issue... humanbean? you still
about? got any of your grandmother's recipes? |
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I'm puttin off building the cellar for
a bit.
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